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Ethnic Footwear Production Process

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The process to manufacture Indian Ethnic Footwear (like Jutti) is mentioned as follows:-

a. Cleaning Leather (Washing & Dying):

The tanned leather (salted) bought from the market is put into water for 2 – 3 days and properly cleaned for removal of dirt and stain marks.
After cleaning the leather is dried in open air.

b. Leveling of uneven dry leather:

The cleaned leather becomes uneven after drying.

 The dried leather is leveled and stretched by using different hand tools.

c. Cutting:

Leather is cut for upper and sole depending on the thickness of leather required.   
 
 
Buffalo leather is used for sole and upper is made from cow & goat leather.The size is determined by finger breadth

d. Upper Making:

Upper (plain /embroidery) is first designed on paper and then sewn on a velvet /leather / textile cloth using wool /soot / zari.

Embroidery is done on the velvet leather/ textile and is then pasted on to the leather. In some places embroidery is done on leather itself.

e. Sole Adhesion:

The lower side of the sole is leveled and inner side is going to be polished. The inner side is cleaned of all white marks, which are residual salt deposits.  

If not cleaned these marks cause irritation to the foot.   Cut pieces of leather are stuffed between the upper and lower layer to make it look thick and heavy and also to minimize cost.

f. Assembly of Upper & Bottom:

The upper & bottom are assembled & thus Jooti starts taking its shape

g. Stitching:

The border of the upper is stitched by women using a small needle (for fine work). 

Then the upper and sole are stitched together using a katar & needle with soot.   Machines are used in very rare cases for the upper border stitching.   This requires high quality of performance and proficient skill.

h. Farma (Last) insertion;

After the sole and upper are stitched, farmas (lasts), made of wood, are inserted into the .Jooti and kept for at least two hours to give the Jooti fore part proper shape.
  
The Jooti also gets smoothened and straightened by the insertion of the farma.

i. Finishing.

Finishing is done by trimming the edges of the sole and fitting the nok.  
 
The process gets completed and the product is ready for dispatch.

 

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